Review// Have You had Crabs?

I tend to get excited when I am at a restaurant and am asked if I would like a bib. This to me means things are about to get messy, and when it comes to seafood that’s how I like it. I have had clams in Cape Cod, Dungeness crab in San Francisco and lobster in Maine and each time it was perfectly messy and the seafood always stole the show. Things were no different when I visited Simon Gault’s Crab Shack in Wellington’s Shed 5. This is the latest venture from Gault and his partners at the Nourish Group who also bring you Euro and Jervois Steak House in Auckland. With Head Chef Geoff Ngan and his team the kitchen is said to be pumping out up to 500 covers a day. That’s a lot of crab. The menu has something for everyone, crowd pleasing burgers, taco’s and Cajun fish of the day grilled in the 24 charcoal barrels.

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The Crab Shacks famous dish however is the 1kg pot of sautéed paddle crabs from Nelson and/or Waikanae. With garlic, shallots and chili, a little butter and finished with a sprinkle of parsley and lemon. One of the best things about ordering the dish is the Crab Shack had a tradition—as the chefs sauté the crabs, the flames flare up and they shout, “FIRE IN THE SHACK!” to which the girls on the floor yell out, “ITS GETTING HOT IN HERE!”. It adds to the relaxed, fun atmosphere. The pot can be shared but the advice my partner and I were given was to get one each. When the 1kg pot was placed in front of me it certainly looked like a kg. Armed with my bib, shell crackers and water bowls for my fingers I tucked in. For about 30 seconds I tried to eat neatly but soon realized that this is not how crab is meant to be consumed. It didn’t take long until I had crab all over my face and hands but not a single person even batted an eyelid because they too had crab juices all over their faces. The sauce perfectly complemented the sweet crab meat and I am happy to say I finished the bowl with ease.

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As I ate I looked around the packed restaurant. The décor is as Simon Gault describes it—the “look of Cape Cod”, with wooden floors, crab cages as lanterns and rustic cutlery. The Crab Shack does not take bookings. Our waitress informs us that no one seems to mind when told their wait could be up to 2 hours. I can see why. This is something New Zealand has been waiting for a long time. It’s the right balance of relaxed fun atmosphere, brilliant fresh New Zealand seafood and messy fingers. The most exciting news is that in September there will be a Crab Shack opening in Auckland. So soon Aucklander’s will also be able to get crabs.

Get to know Head Chef Geoff Ngan

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FM-What lead you to becoming a chef?

My keen interest in travel, my love of food and wanting to  combine them both.

FM-What would be one of your favorite meals to eat?

A 2am session of braised pork and Sichuan tofu on rice after a long day at work

FM-What is a common mistake most at home cooks make?

Not enough Salt.

FM-When handed a plate of food to eat you really get  annoyed when….

It’s so nicely presented it’s gone cold

FM-What is one ingredient you couldn’t live without?

Eggs

FM-What do you like to do when you’re not in the kitchen?

Spend time with my partner Kirsty and my son William

FM-What would your ultimate day off be?

Sleep in, a spot of reading, late brunch with partner and friends, continue into the arvo with coffee, catch a movie and dinner somewhere nice.



THE CRAB SHACK, QUEENS WHARF, WELLINGTON 6011

Opening hours: 11:30am to late – 7 days!

04 916 4250

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